Our four-day stop in Manila was a mix of the practical and the profound. After taking care of some routine business—including a dermatologist appointment that, thankfully, went perfectly well—Jim and I got to put on our tourist hats for an afternoon. We headed straight for Intramuros, the historic walled city, and spent hours wandering through Fort Santiago. I went in expecting to see some old Spanish stone architecture, but I walked away completely captivated by the incredible, turbulent history of the Philippines—and one man’s life in particular. I was inspired to come home and find a movie about him - José Rizal (1998) - was quite good.
History of the Philippines
First off, you learn about the general history of these islands - over 7,000 of them! Over the centuries, five distinct flags have flown over the Philippines: the Spanish empire, the British empire, the rising sun of Japan, the stars and stripes of the United States, and finally, the proud flag of an independent Philippines. Each era left its mark, but it was the Spanish colonial period that set the stage for a fascinating historical turnabout.
Jose Rizal
His name is everywhere - Rizal Park, Rizal Avenue, Rizal Sports Complex, Rizal Province. Who was this guy? Rizal wasn’t a military general or a fiery rebel commander. He was an intellectual—an ophthalmologist, a novelist, and a poet. He looked at the harsh treatment of the Filipino people under Spanish rule and chose to fight not with a sword, but with his pen. Through his writings, he advocated for peaceful reforms, equal rights, and better treatment for his countrymen. He explicitly did not organize any violent rebellions. In fact, he believed the country wasn't ready for one.
Rizal didn’t want a war. He wanted equality, education, and respect. But the Spanish authorities couldn't tell the difference between a demand for justice and a call to arms.
The Ultimate Historical Backfire
Threatened by his influence, the colonial government arrested Rizal, accused him of inciting a rebellion he actually discouraged, and sentenced him to death. In December 1896, they executed him by firing squad.
Talk about a move completely backfiring!
By executing a peaceful reformer, the government achieved the exact opposite of what they wanted. They didn’t silence the movement; they created an immortal martyr. The outrage over his execution became the tipping point for the country, igniting a genuine revolution and cementing a national identity that eventually drove the colonizers out. The Spanish wanted to crush a spark, but instead, they threw fuel on a wildfire.
The American era
Then, thru another twist of history, the USA got involved because of the Spanish-American war. They helped defeat the Spanish in the Philippines and were thought to be the peoples' liberator but instead of independence, the Americans purchased the islands from the Spanish for 20 million dollars. Thus began the Philippine-American war 1898-1902 and the Philippines ended up being under the control of the US until the end of WW2. During this time, the US 'Americanized' the islands, setting up school systems and building infrastructure. The US successfully defended the Philippines against the Japanese and granted Independence in 1946.
Today, our 2 countries are considered the best of allies, however the US no longer maintains any military bases in the Philippines - a lease extension was denied in 1992. Subic bay, which was the largest overseas U.S. naval installation during the cold war era, is now a privately owned shipyard utilized by the US for repairs.
Our TukTuk driver on the way back to the ship asked us where we were from. When we said the USA, he said, "Oh we love the USA! They helped us out of World War II."